Survival Guide To Indian Railways Sleeper Trains

 Planning Our Tour Of India By Sleeper Trains

We were looking for a small group tour around India that would include travel via trains instead of buses or planes. We were hoping for an adventure to experience the real feeling of traveling on India’s sleeper trains just as the locals do. While planning, we often checked the current running status of various routes to understand how reliable each journey might be. But we also wanted to reduce our spending on other things, so we decided not to take the luxurious Palace On Wheels or the well-known Maharajas Express.

We've travelled on sleeping trains from China and they're an absolute delight, however it's common knowledge that the standards of sleeping carriages and seats that are found in India aren't like those in China and Europe. It was going to be anything like the pictures we've seen of people sitting and standing on the roofs of trains? No matter what happened, we knew that it would be an unforgettable experience. We'll talk of it here in this blog and our top strategies for surviving Indian Railways sleeper trains.

About Indian Railways

Connecting India

The British introduced railway trains into India in 1853. In today's time, Indian Railways is 4th largest train network worldwide. It is run by the government, who run 14,000 passenger trains that transport daily 23 million passengers at 7,349 locations. Wow. It connects remote communities with major cities across the entire length and width of India's vast terrain.

Indian Railways Sleeper Train Classes

There are 8 classes that are available and they depend on the destination and train. We're only interested in sleeper classes, which can be broken down into the following:

• AC1 (or AC1 (or A-1) AC1 carriages (also known as A-1) are air conditioned and 1st class, but there's no trains or routes using this class. They come with two bunk beds (berths) cabins that locked doors. The carriages also have shower cubicles.

• AC2 (or A-2) AC2 (or A-2) class that has air-conditioned carriages, and an open-plan 2 bunk beds that are arranged in four beds in a row. Plug sockets are located near windows, and a privacy curtain. There are two bunk beds on the corridors, each with its own curtains and lighting. Pillows and sheets are available. Most often, they are used by middle class and middle classIndian Indians of middle classfamilies and also tourists. In the day, all bunk beds can be folded to form seats.

• AC3 (or AC3 (or A-3) AC3 (also known as A-3) - Similar facilities to AC2 class, but the only difference is that they are larger because they are equipped with more beds. 3 bunk beds with three levels (upper middle, lower) are separated into rooms with 6 beds, plus 3 bunk beds that are located along the corridors. As with AC2, there aren't privacy curtains.

• SL Standard sleeper class is 3rd class. It's the way the majority of Indians and backpackers travel. Three bunk beds are set up in a row of six beds, and there are two bunk beds running along corridors. There is no air conditioning, just windows that are open and have bars to stop people from getting into the room from the outside. You must bring the sleeping bags you have because there's no bedding provided.

Example of AC2 2-berth grouped in bays of 4 beds

Here's how AC2's 2-berth beds appear like on the other side of the corridor.

Plug sockets for electricity are accessible on AC2 and AC3 air-conditioned carriages that are located beneath the windows.

AC1 Class AC1 Class sleeper train travel in separate cabins that have lockable doors.

AC2 Class carriage – Trains are either blue or yellow

AC3 Class – Three tier bunk bed sleeper trains

SL Class - Regular sleeper trains that are used by the masses and backpackers

Our Indian Sleeper Train Experiences!

Delhi to Udaipur Sleeper Train

We rode our first sleeper train overnight that ran from Delhi through Udaipur. The train arrived at 5pm. the railway station of Hazrat Nizamuddin at a good time, so that we could board the train at 7pm. We were thrilled however, we were probably more anxious to know if it was clean? Were we able to have a restful night? Once you get into the station, as with all stations on trains in India you will need to undergo airport-style security checkpoint and get your luggage scrutinized and your documents scanned to reach the platforms.

The aiport style security in south Delhi's railway station, Hazrat Nizamuddin.

Hazrat Nizamuddin railway station sign

Waiting For Our Sleeper Train

On the platform, a lot of people were looking at us, and taking both discreet and not so discreet pictures It was hilarious. We didn't meet anybody else Western tourists because not many people visit Delhi. Be aware that a lot of locals have never met Westerners and are looking for a reason to be. A few individuals approached us to take an image.

Platforms are very long because trains are really long. Therefore, the numbers of people who are waiting on stations is huge. It's a thrilling experience simply watching the hustle and rush of everyday life pass through. Platforms are filled with families sleeping and snoozing on the floor some with large packages to move. Phil was struck by the sight of merchandise balancing on medieval-looking carts appear like a scene from a play or a set from a pantomime.

It was interesting to observe the talents of a few people who like to put their suitcases on their heads. The luggage porters perform this feat and work extremely difficult. We saw one porter carry three huge suitcases and the other one was balancing on top of his head! Evidently, porters are getting out of their jobs due to installing escalators in stations. We also were able to see a group of elderly women who had clearly never had a chance to use an escalator prior to.

Station platforms are full of food stalls that sell Chai (sweet tea) as well as soft drinks in cans, crisps, and biscuits. Hazrat Nizamuddin was perhaps the most modern of stations we visited and featured a the most clean and tidy food bar and waiting area. India is developing and they are constructing more of these clean and hygiene-conscious eating spaces because of the demand from middle-class Indians. We enjoyed a biryani made of vegetables as well as a glass of Pepsi (nowhere can you buy the Garth's Diet Coca-Cola).

Indian sleeper trains can be incredibly long, and so are the carriages!

Waiting in Delhi for our sleeper train

On the platform, one can watch the bustle of life pass by.

Luggage porters are dressed in red blazers, and carry enormous loads, sometimes even on their heads

A nice restaurant and lounge in the Delhi's Hazrat Nizamuddin station

Enjoying our vegetable biryani before boarding the sleeper train

On Board The Sleeper Train

On the outside, sleeper train appear dated, but inside they are more comfortable. We boarded the AC-2 train and were able to locate our seats quickly. You can look to the ceiling to see the blue arrows to find the number of your seat or bed. Some of us were required to request that people take their beds off Don't be afraid to request. Secure your bags to the hooks underneath the seats as fast as you can prior to letting others use up your space.

We shared an upper bunk bed that was located in the corridor. We quickly realized that you have to get rid of the notion of privacy and personal space since everything is open but it's also elegant. The bunks in the corridor's top could be a challenge for people with older bodies who are attempting to get into them, and they're not suitable for those suffering from fears of being claustrophobic once the curtain is shut.

In each AC carriage, a staff member will hand you a brown bag that contains a starched and ironed bedsheet, a rough woollen blanket, and an extra pillow. We were happy to see that they were spotless on every sleeper train we rode on. We brought along an easy silk sleep sheet but we only had to use them once.

The overnight train ride between Delhi through Udaipur is 12 hours in length. The train was an express route with 20 stops, each stopping for about 5 minutes. It was somewhat disconcerting to see that the windows were filthy and couldn't be seen outside. This is true for all trains, so don't think you'll see much of the outside. The next morning, our group talked about how much sleep we had gotten - Garth got 1.5 hours of sleep, and Phil got two hours. We were extremely tired as if we'd been in a long haul flight. The rolling movement of the train was everywhere, Garth thought the motion was like being flying in an airplane with constant onslaught. Phil considered it to be somewhat uncomfortable since it's not possible to lie completely flat for a stretch. Also, it's noisy, especially because mobile phones are constantly vibrating.

Woo hoo! we're headed off to our very first sleeper train ride in India

Phil is in the top bunk on our very first overnight train trip to Udaipur

Garth also had a top bunk in the corridor

A clean and fresh bed sheet as well as a blanket and pillow are included in AC2 and AC3 classes.

Famous round glasses from Gandhi's life are printed on reverse of the blanket's sleeves - do you know what the message is?

We Got Off At The Wrong Station!

It's best to be prepared in advance for when you get from the train. Unlock your padlocks from your luggage and sit in the vestibules waiting to leave. We stepped out of the train, and then waited around for other participants to arrive but they didn't and, before we knew it, the train was gone! Doh! It's hard to pinpoint the cause, but we were off the train way too early! It was a good thing it was only one stop away from our destination, Udaipur.

Garth informed Phil not to panic, and we contacted our tour guide Pema and she advised us to take an tuk-tuk and go towards the hotel. We arrived at the hotel ahead of the others! It is important to verify the names for the stations prior to departure since some stations utilize the older British names or don't have the city's name.

We were able to get off in error! This is not Udaipur.

Udaipur to Ajmer (Pushkar) - Morning Train

Our next train journey was a trip that took us that took us from Udaipur up to Ajmer which we then were transferred from Pushkar via Jeep. We were in a 'Chair Class air-conditioned train that was comfortable and nice. Arriving at Amjer we saw lots of pigs roaming about along the tracks!

Our air conditioned chair-class carriage from Udaipur to Ajmer

Pigs wandering around the Ajmer train tracks

Jaipur to Agra - Early Morning Sleeper Train

We boarded an extremely early train in the morning that went from Jaipur towards Agra which had a four hours. The carriage we rode on was crowded since it was an AC3 class. There were people sleeping before we boarded and there was not enough space to store our bags. Therefore, we secured them further down the carriage. The sleeping space was cramped. The bunk beds are on 3 layers and a bit cramped at times. The room was not very private because there were none of the curtains available in AC3.

Jaipur Junction railway station

Phil sleeping on the AC3 sleeper train that runs from Jaipur through Agra Cantt

Phil awakes to discover the bed support isn't there!

Agra to Allahabad - Overnight Sleeper Train

The second sleeper train we rode overnight was a 10-hour journey between Agra Cantt to Allahabad. We sat and stood on the platform, some older people walked at us and stared at us, which was very strange. Others wanted to take pictures with us, and we took a while. The tannoy lady who constantly announces messages that no one listens to, is now an annoying background noise!

We travelled on the AC2 Class train (the ones that have curtains and two levels). The last time we slept well! We put it down to the early start on the day we went to see the Taj Mahal at dawn.

We’ve arrived at Agra Cantt railway station

We are waiting for our sleeper train waiting on the train platform of Agra Cantt station.

Garth passing the time onboard with his iPad before sleeping

The next morning at Allahabad’s Railway Station

Varanasi To Kolkata - Our Last Sleeper Train

We had come to the end of our trip to India with only one sleeper train that was overnight from Varanasi up to Kolkata in order to catch. The train station in Varanasi was cleaner than other platforms we've been to. Even though it was winter, there were plenty of mosquitoes, and even an animal in the track. To keep busy and stay warm, we sat in the waiting room inside where we shared a space with others who were who were sleeping in the bed.

It was fascinating to observe the number of people carrying small and large plastic bottles. They hold holy water in the River Ganges. A lot of Hindus are known to bring the water back home to offer to friends and family members who can't go to Varanasi.

The 15-hour journey was an absolute nightmare. A crying baby, a lot of people who snored loudly, and mobile phones that kept ringing throughout the night, which meant we couldn't sleep much. We were shocked by the number of people who have high-volume conversations using their phones in any given moment and so make sure to wear ears off!

Waiting at Varanasi for the sleeper train to Kolkata

The day after the harrowing night!

Garth got the top bunk on the corridor again

Views from the windows as we approach Kolkata. Many people living in poverty live right along the tracks.

A commuter train that goes to Kolkata The most familiar sight we've seen of people in train platforms

Our final destination – Kolkata Railway Station

Indian Sleeper Trains Practical Information & Advice

Lock Your Luggage

Do not take large suitcases as they'll be too big to fit under beds (or even in the tuk taxis). Our hardshell suitcases were just the right dimensions - H63cm x W42cm and D24cm. It's better to secure your luggage. check under the seats for metal rings. If there isn't one, lock your bags together. We carried our own bicycle combination lock. If you don't have one, you can buy locks and chains at railway stations, but we found that they were not readily accessible. We put all of our important items in our rucksacks and then put the pillows on top to ensure it was secure beneath our heads. Your head should be placed near the window if you're not sleeping on a bunk bed in a corridor mattress.

Lock your suitcases securely to the metal rings under your mattress or seat on sleeper trains.

If there's no Ring Padlock, they will be locked between the seats

Food & Drink on Sleeper Trains

There are no dining cars on Indian sleeper trains. Instead personnel move up and down carriages on a regular basis offering food and drinks. We could choose from tea, water in bottles and biryani, tomato soup, and omelettes on the first mornings. A tea wallah was the most frequent person to chant "chai, chai". We bought only the chai and crisps packets If you wish to stay clear of Delhi Belly don't buy any of the hot food items.

A paper cup of chai – India’s sweet milky tea

The Toilets on India's Sleeper Trains!

Finally, the bathrooms! It's not going to be easy! say that the toilets aren't very nice to be truthful. After each carriage, you are offered the option of a squatty bathroom or a Western style toilet. Neither are much better than the other! If you've ever attended The Glastonbury Festival of music you'll be familiar with that smell. It's similar to the toilets on sleeper trains. They're not clean, but the attendants do frequently flush them, so make sure you're wearing shoes and bring your own toilet paper and hand sanitizer.

A typical squatty potty from an AC2 sleeper train

A Western-style toilet, perhaps just a little better than the toilet that is squatty?

Toilet signs in the carriages let you know whether they are full or not, as in an plane

Phil and Garth’s Top 5 Indian Sleeper Train Tips

Phil and Garth's Top 5 Indian Railways Sleeper Train Tips

• Tips #1 You should carry five essentials: padlock, earplugs plenty of water, hand soap and toilet roll.

• Tips #2 You should have the number 2 in your hotel prior to when you arrive at the train station or the station if you need to.

• TIP #3Everything is the same after the curtains are shut. Attach a ribbon when you need to for a pee in the middle of the night.

• Tips #4Charge your phone and bring an energy bank to help you get through long trips and delays. Garth was happy he did.

• Tips #5 The top beds can be icy cold as they sit right near an AC outlet.

How We Did It

• We left at close to the beginning of January for an 11-day tour around India. There was a cold wind during the evenings, which means you'll need layers as well as warm clothing.

• We booked a small group guided tour with Explore who arranged and booked the train tickets. The tour includes an experienced tour guide, our guide was Pema who led us to the correct platform and was available to give us any assistance we needed.

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